SL Seafurl SL furler, classic simplicity combined with big boat performance 707 SL Furler Max system length: 53'3' - boats from 25' to 33' (8-10m) Featuring heavy duty construction for maximum reliability and performance, the 707 SL is simple to install, use and maintain - even under challenging conditions. Wire Diameter 3/16' (5mm) 7/32' (6mm) 1/4' (7mm) 9/32' (8mm) Pin Diameter 5/16' (8mm) 3/8' (9.5mm) 7/16' (11mm) 1/2' (12.7mm) Rod sizes -4 -6 -8 -10 808 SL Furler Max system length: 67' - boats from 34' to 46' (10-14m) Combining a proven design with state-of-the-art materials, the 808 SL is a user friendly, single line furling and reefing system designed for larger boats.
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The system is a 1981 Hood SeaFurl. At the top of teh mast, I discovered that the top section of sheath/track, only about 18' long, was MANGLED, aluminum was missing and there were bits of halyard caught in the jagged edges. It seems that the car that the halyard attaches to and slides up and down the. Jun 21, 2008 seafurl 5 roller furler for a hc36: free. 5: 10:44: Hood SeaFurl Question. Solid Bronze Manual Windlass.
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They will be explained to you soon enough. The big trade off in sizing this string is that you want a big line so it's easy on your hands and a little line so it winds onto the drum nicely. Strength isn't really much of an issue so polyester double braid from anyone is fine. Take a good look at the fairleads and cleats in place as those will limit the line size. Also consider whether there's a winch you might want to use to start furling a big head sail in a squall - if so, what size line will work with that winch and it's self-tailing jaws. I'd guess that on your new-to-you boat, 1/4' will be a bit tough on the hands and 3/8' will be too big for the fairleads and the drum.
That suggests 5/16. You might also take a look at what Hood recommends, if you can find documentation. In a recent upgrade of boat, I've become the owner of a Hood 3250 Seafurl. Previous owner didn't use it - liked changing sails I guess. So it's not actually rigged. What kind of line to I need on this for furling it?
My previous boat (4kt shitbox) used some 1/4' line, but the sail was tiny in comparison - it was a 27 ft boat. This one is on a 35 ft boat. Thanks for any opinions. I have one of these. 5/16 line and you pull the core out of the forward half so you can get more line in the drum.
Www.pompanette.com (they own Hood Sea Systems and Bomar) will sell you a new one. I upgraded the factory line with Sampson throphy braid. Rough finish is easier to grab while driving the boat downwind especially if your hands are stiff. Also add an extra couple of feet on it and put a big bowline loop at the end.
That way you can give a good yank on the first turns. The Hoods are a good unit,but the first turn is always a pia to accomplish. The loop gets you past the problem. Hood says 7/16! Download Flashtool V5 1152 Error. They are on crack. 7/16' on a 35' boat?
Here are the facts (pulled all my documentation). The original line was replaced with a 3/8' Stay-set with half the core stripped out when I bought the boat. When I put the new Hood furler on, I bought the Sampson in 8mm (5/16) and again stripped out half the core. Even so, it barely allows me to get all the turns needed to furl if it is a tight furl ( eg done under tension). J on my boat is 13.3. I run a 155 so we are talking 20'. When I got my new unit, the instructions were a mismash of various models (325, 808 etc).
On one page they talk of 7/16 at the top and 5/16' two paragraphs down. As I said 5/16 will work fine. Give Marty Bingler a call at Pommarette. He designs the things.
The new H325 suggests 3/8' line. The older sister 3250 originally used a 7/16' line which its size is in big part why the core was removed so you could fit enough line around the drum. Someone posted something in this thread about sizing a line so you can fit it in the self-tailer of your winch. Before you winch in your furling line on the 3250 (and a number of other makes), please know that you will end up breaking your furler before you know it.
Speaking of breaking your furling system, if you have the old interlock extrusions, you may want to check out the joints at each extrusion to make sure that none of the tabs are cracked or broken. The first ones to go were at the feeder.
The later model 3250 with button lock extrusions are much more forgiving than the interlock and their latest model is superior. Geeze, I thought this would be a simple question!!! Blast Effects On Buildings Pdf Merge. For the record, the reply from Hood was: The furling line should be 7/16'.
Thank you, Marty Barnett Hood Customer Service It was a very prompt reply, and he also answered that yes - bearings are still available (I thought I would ask - don't know that I need them but figured ask two questions at once). Well, I guess I will go with 7/16'. If I can't get enough wrapped to furl the sail I will have to pull some core out. Good point about checking the extrusion, will have a look at that when the ice is off it. Correct me if I am wrong, but I dont think there is any reason to go with a specific line size, other than what works best for you. If you want to use 3/16' vectran and your hands wont complain - go right ahead.
I would be surprised about 7/16', because you would need HUGE leadblocks to bring it back to the cockpit. 5/16' sounds good and will likely run through the blocks very easy, 3/8' might have a little more friction but will work well in most hands.
If your blocks will accomodate 7/16', even better on the hands, but you will probably have to strip some core, as others have mentioned. I think the most important issue is having a ratchet block and cam cleat to pull the line through as your furling or reefing; it'll give your hands (and back) a moments rest. We are all not getting any younger (except you Rob); why not make sailing easier and more enjoyable.